Summer 2005

When people talk of the regeneration of Gloucester , most pinpoint the city's historic docks as one of the focal points of the project. In the past five years, three warehouses, some derelict, have been transformed into luxury flats and four new buildings are under construction.

It is clearly one of the up-and-coming areas of the county.

And, sitting at the entrance in Southgate Street , is one of the city's hidden gems. Much like the rest of the areas, The Tall Ship pub has undergone some dramatic changes in the last few years. The imposing Victorian building has been painted, creating a welcoming effect, while the small beer garden at the rear looks ideal for a summer snack. However, the only hint of what to expect when you enter is a sign boasting ‘the best pub food in town'.

As you step into the pub there is a traditional bar ad restaurant, with a huge pictorial menu emblazoned across the wall. Seafood on the Docks is the title of the food operation and, if you are fan of fish, you should allow yourself extra time to choose your dish. The starters alone offer a wealth of variety.

Crevettes and prawns, smoked salmon and mussels are all included in the appetisers section. After much deliberation, I decided to go for smoked mackerel with crusty brown bread, while my partner opted for the marinated seafood salad. My dish consisted of two fillets of fish, with fresh, tasty bread, a small salad, large chunks of lemon, and a home-made chutney.

The seafood was perfect, fresh and tasty. And the dressing added flavour while not overpowering the delicate taste of the fish. If choosing the starter proved problematic, the main course was even more so. Dishes on the extensive menu included pan fried chicken with mushrooms, and bacon and herbs in a white wine sauce. But the seafood proved irresistible.

I had been told about the warm seafood salad by friends and could not resist trying it myself. My partner chose a seafood risotto which was superb, with delicately flavoured rice and a wide selection of seafood, including white fish, prawns and mussels.

The seafood salad, meanwhile was a wonder to behold. A whole sardine, huge chunks of white fish, fillets of salmon, small prawns, crevettes and mussels filled the bowl alongside a generous salad. Each item was cooked to perfection, the mussels were large and tasty, while each type of fish retained its own flavour. The pub really offers something out of the ordinary and the seafood menu is worthy of any restaurant.

The sign outside boasted the best pub food in town and I would find it hard to argue with that assessment.

David Thomas